大概3個月前我開始(嘗試著去)衝浪。 衝浪真的非常困難,但是幾乎每週末去練習加上每晚在家練習在衝浪板上站起的動作,我終於可以站起來並留在衝浪板上(而不是站起來就跌進浪裡)。衝浪真是一條漫長的路啊⋯但是這條路去向何方呢?在一路上我大致上給自己了一些嬰兒學步般的小小目標:
I started (to attempt) surfing from 3 months ago. It is so difficult, but by going almost every weekend and dry land pop up everyday, I was finally able to pop up and stay on the board. It is a long road... to what though? I have been loosely setting baby step goals along the way:
- 在被浪衝倒時可以保持冷靜
- 在推動起身時 可以保持衝浪板的平衡
- 在衝浪板上站起時可以往前看而不是看著自己的腳
- 在 划水時可以更有效率並選擇適合自己程度的浪
- 在快要俯衝時可以記得推動起身
- 可以 將站起動作練到成肌肉反射
- 可以在衝浪板上站起後繼續留在板上
⋯ 這個清單無止境的延伸,甚至有些瑣碎,但是我一直可以找到更多我「接近但是還做不到 」的項目。
- can stay calm when dumped by wave
- can keep board balance when push up
- can look ahead rather than at my feet when pop up
- can paddle efficiently and identify wave right for me
- can initiate push up when about to nose dive
- can build muscle reflex of pop up sequence
- can stay on the board after pop up
... the list goes on, it’s almost tedious, and there’s always something more I find, that is close enough but I’m just not quite there.
這個週末當我終於可以自己乘到浪,在衝浪板上站起滑(以我的超級初學者標準來說)較長的時間,我實在太興奮了!在那幾次較長的滑行後我望向四周期盼有旁觀者給予鼓勵,才發現大家都專注於自己的浪而沒有餘力看其他人。
This weekend when I was able to catch my own wave, pop up and stay on the board for a few long (in my standard) rides, I was ecstatic! I looked around at the end of those longish rides for some encouragement, only to realize that everyone was concentrating on their own surf and no one was looking.
下面是我覺得為什麼衝浪這麼引人入勝,並充滿哲理的原因:
1. 我們都在同一個海洋,但是我們都各自在自己的衝浪板 上衝自己的浪
2. 衝浪是終極孤獨的運動- 它沒有可能組隊參加。你自己的努力直接轉換為你自己的成果,所以沒有任何的藉口
3. 每個人都忙著衝自己的浪,所以沒有人有空看你。不要害怕一直失敗,沒有人在看;同樣的,虛榮或自尊也沒有出場的機會
4. 海洋有時候會給你超出能力範圍的大浪- 學習如何翻過或潛過這些大浪,因為能將人拋到空中的大浪是無法避免的,而你必須 保護自己
5. 每個人衝同一個浪的方式都不一樣。這關於時機的掌控,能力程度,及控制
6. 沒有什麼是馬上就做得到的,而且追求進步的路途沒有終點
現在假設我們把「海洋」換成「宏觀的人生」,「衝浪」換成「微觀的人生」,而「海浪」換成「人生中發生的事件」,你覺得上面那些像是在描述什麼呢?
最重要的是,絕不放棄繼續嘗試。
Here are what I found fascinating about surfing that makes it so philosophical:
1. We are all in the same ocean, but we are all on our own boards catching our own waves.
2. Surfing is the ultimate loner’s sport - there is no way to team up. your effort directly translates to the outcome and there is no excuse
3. Everyone is busy with their own surf that no one is looking at you. Don’t be afraid to keep failing, no one is looking; vanity or pride has no place either for the same reason.
4. Ocean will give you waves sometimes bigger than your skill level- learn how to go over or under the wave, because dumpy waves are inevitable and you must stay safe.
5. With the same wave, everyone surfs differently. It’s about timing, skill and control.
6. Nothing happens overnight and there is no end to the pursuit of becoming better
Now, how does it sound when you think about “ocean” as “life in the macro”, and “surf” as “life in the micro”, “wave” as “happenings in life”?
Most importantly- never stop trying.